Tarilyn's Show'n Tell

Just for Lori

2008-02-13T16:12:00.000-08:00

This first picture is kinda blurry, but I wanted you to see how I insert the needle into the second stitch.
Now the needle is all the way in the second stitch, ready to knit.

Wrap yarn over ...

Pull through the loop (finish the knit stitch) but don't pull too much yarn through.

Now twist your needle to the right and into the first stitch. You have to boss it a little bit because it's awkward.

Wrap yarn over to knit the stitch

Pull through the loop

Slide both stitches off

It should look like this.

Bailey

2007-09-23T20:27:00.000-07:00

The design for this aran scarf was inspired by a similar scarf offered in the Winter 2006 Land's End catalog. Bailey Island, located on Casco Bay in the Town of Harpswell, Maine, features a cute gift shop called Land's End. As a child, my mother and I would often drive to Bailey Island in the summer and picnic on the giant sloping metamorphic rocks outside of the gift shop. Although I loved trolling the beach for treasures, my favorite part of the day was shopping for a new cotton sailor bracelet which looked exactly like the alternating cable rib pattern in this scarf. When I first discovered that there was a clothing catalog called Lands End, I naturally assumed that it was the same shop, and was peeved when I discovered that it was not. This scarf is my tribute to those summer days at the real Land's End.

Finished measurements (without blocking) 6.5 inches wide by 77 inches long - including fringe

Yarn: 575 yards of worsted weight yarn (note: the fringe uses 31 yards and adds approximately 11 inches to the total finished length) Scarf in photo used 3 skeins of Malabrigo (216 yds per skein) in color "Natural"

Gauge: 20 sts and 26 rows = 4 inches (5 sts/inch)

Needles: U.S. size 8 and size D (3.0 mm) crochet hook

Abbreviations:

st = stitch
sts = stitches
k = knit
p = purl
RS = Right Side
WS = Wrong Side
(pm) = place marker
cn = cable needle
C4F = slip 2 sts to cn and hold in front, k2 then k2 from cn
CFB = slip 2 sts to cn and hold in back, k2 then k2 from cn
T3kB = slip 1 st to cn and hold back, k2 then k1 from cn
T3F = slip 2 sts to cn and hold in front, p1 then k2 from cn
T3pB = slip 1 st to cn and hold in back, k2 then p1 from cn

Cable Patterns:

NOTE: For all patterns, on all even numbered (WS) rows, work stitches as they appear. Instructions for the some even numbered rows are given only as a reminder of how many rows are worked.

Pattern A: Open Work Cable with Moss Stitch (worked over 12 sts and 16 rows)

Row 1: RIGHT SIDE - p4, C4F, p4 ; LEFT SIDE - p4, C4B, p4
Row 2 and all even numbered rows: works sts as they appear
Row 3: p3, T3kB, T3F, p3
Row 5: p2, T3kB, p1, k1, T3F, p2
Row 7: p1, T3kB, (p1, k1) twice, T3F, p1
Row 9: P1, k2, (p1, k1) 3 times, k2, p1
Row 11: p1 T3F, (p1, k1) twice, T3pB, p1
Row 13: p2, T3F, p1, k1, T3pB, p2
Row 15: p3, T3F, T3pB
Row 16: work sts as they appear

Pattern B: Alternating Cable Rib (worked over 6 sts and 4 rows)

Row 1: C4B, k2
Row 2: p6
Row 3: k2, C4F
Row 4: p6

Pattern C : Double Cable (worked over 10 sts and 8 rows)

Row 1: p1, C4B, C4F, p1
Row 2 and all even numbered rows: k1, p8, k1
Rows 3, 5 and 7: p1, k8, p1
Row 8: k1, p8, k1

Pattern notes:

Instructions are provided for placing markers. Whether or not you use markers is up to you. Each cable pattern is divided by a purl stitch which I found sufficient to use as a visual marker, but do whatever feels most comfortable to you. Sometimes it is helpful to use the markers until you become familiar with the pattern.

Each full repeat is composed of 16 rows. Within those 16 rows, you will repeat the Pattern A once, Pattern B 4 times, and Pattern C twice. Please note that on Row 1 of Pattern A, the cables on the Right and Left cross in opposite directions.

Instructions are given using a cable needle, but all of the cables are easily worked without one. There are a number of tutorials available on the web including Grumperina's, Wendy's and this YouTube video.

Instructions:

Cast on 50 sts (I use long tail method)

Set up Row: p2 (pm) k4, p4, k4 (pm) p6 (pm) k1, p8, k1 (pm) p6 (pm) p4, k4, p4 (pm) p2

Row 1 (RS): k2, work Row 1 of Pattern A for RIGHT SIDE over 12 sts, work Row 1 of Pattern B over 6 sts, work Row 1 of Pattern C over 10 sts, work Row 1 of Pattern B over 6 sts, and work Row 1 of Pattern A for LEFT SIDE over 12 sts, k2
Row 2 and all even numbered (WS) rows: work all sts as they appear (knit the knits and purl the purls)
Row 3: k2, work Row 3 of all Patterns as set up in Row 1, k2
Row 5: k2, work Row 5 of Pattern A, Row 1 of Pattern B, and Row 5 of Pattern C, k2
Row 7: k2, work Row 7 of Pattern A, Row 3 of Pattern B, and Row 7 of Pattern C, k2
Row 9: k2, work Row 9 of Pattern A, Row 1 of Pattern B, and Row 1 of Pattern C, k2
Row 11: k2, work Row 11 of Pattern A, Row 3 of Pattern B, and Row 3 of Pattern C, k2
Row 13: k2, work Row 13 of Pattern A, Row 1 of Pattern B, and Row 5 of Pattern C, k2
Row 15: k2 work Row 15 of Pattern A, Row 3 of Pattern B, and Row 7 of Pattern C, k2
Row 16 (WS): work all sts as they appear

Repeat Rows 1 thru 16 a total of 27 times, or to desired length, ending on row 16. Bind off all stitches in pattern according to Row 1 (yes, that means cable and then bind off - this helps keep the stitches from spreading out during bind off.)

Weave in ends and block if desired. Scarf shown was not blocked.
Fringe:

Cut 84 strands 13 inches long. Note: I wrapped the yarn around a rotary cutting ruler 6.5 inches wide and then cut along one side. You may also use a book or any other method to make your strands.

Insert crochet hook from back to front through second stitch in cast on/bind off end. Hold 2 strands of fringe together and fold in half. Insert crochet hook in the loop end and pull through the stitch part way with crochet hook. Draw ends of fringe through this loop and pull ends to close the loop. Repeat approximately every other stitch in cast on/bind off end even spaced across. Trim fringe if needed. Model scarf has 21 fringes across each end.

Classic Collar Cardigan

2007-09-23T15:00:00.001-07:00

Pattern: Classic Collar Cardigan with Straight Sleeves from Paton's Next Step Three - size XS

Yarn: Berroco Keltic in color Thistle (# 5853) (I can't remember how many skeins I bought!!)

Started February and finished September 18th, 2007

Modifications: Yarn substitution and shorter sleeves.
Comments: OK, I am a self admitted yarn snob when it comes to acrylic, but I do like this yarn despite the plastic portion of the contents. It's very light weight, not at all scratchy, and warm. I love these Patons patterns, and can't wait to make another one form either this book or Next Step Two. When all my knitting pals (and Mr. S) saw this pattern they said "It's nice, but I don't like the big buttons". Ha! That's what attracted me to it!

Louisa Harding V-neck Cardigan

2007-09-23T14:57:00.000-07:00

Pattern: V-neck Cardigan from Louisa Harding's Modern Classics

Yarn: GGH Linova (color #19 - Pink) used just about 6.5 skeins (100m per skein) for a 34 inch finished bust

Needles: Size 3 , 24 inch circular Susan Bates Quicksilver and size 1 Addi Turbo 40 inch circulars.

Modifications: Substituted a cotton and linen blend worsted weight yarn for the Kashmir DK called for in the pattern and knit it to a DK gauge with smaller needles. Shortened sleeves. Created a smaller size and added waist shaping according to my measurements rather than the symmetrical hourglass shape called for in most patterns. I seem to have a long rib cage - does that make me "long waisted"?
Comments: Although I was nervous about the shaping and the fit of this garment, I am very pleased with how it came out. The yarn was a little splitty to work with, but has gorgeous drape and was not at all difficult to knit with on the smaller size needles, which helps to keep the fabric from stretching out of shape. I have worn this a number of times, and unlike other cotton garments I've knitted, it hasn't grown any. I would definitely knit this sweater again!

Ginger

2007-09-23T14:53:00.001-07:00

Pattern: Ginger from the Rowan Summer Tweed Collection by Kim Hargreaves size XS

Yarn: Rowan Summer Tweed in Summer Berry (color 537) Pattern calls for 3 skeins - I needed 4 (hrmmmph!)

Needles: Takumi Bamboo (24 inch circulars) in sizes 7 and 8

Modifications: None, other than the fact that I needed an extra skein for the last 14 stitches! I also used some leftover Royal Bamboo yarn in a matching color to seam up.
Comments: This is a not a very pleasant yarn to knit with as it is nubby and has absolutely no give, but it comes in such luxurious colors and wears so well that the pain is worth it!

Fifi

2007-09-23T14:49:00.001-07:00

Pattern: Fifi by French Girl Knits, featured on the Sexy Knitters Club for Summer 2007

Started July 3rd and finished September 4th, 2007

Yarn: Rowan Calmer in Lucky (color # 484) Used just over 3 skeins for size 29.5.

Needles: Size 7 Addi Turbo 24" and Takumi Bamboo dpns in sizes 6 and 7.

Modifications: Added extra ribbing at sides to accommodate "apex" of my bosom. Picked up 11 sts under each arm for sleeve instead of 3 and only knit two together once to even out for ribbing. When switching to smaller needles, I worked in K2, P2 rib for 1 round instead of K1, P1.
Comments: I had a devil of a time with the cable cast on - for some reason I kept twisting my stitches but only discovering it on the 5th or 6th round. I also had some difficulty with the part of the pattern where I was to separate the sleeves from the body. Twice I followed the pattern exactly as written, but my gut told me that it wasn't coming out right, so I went with my instincts and worked it the way I thought it should be done (with more stitches for the body than for the sleeves). I think that part of the pattern has been corrected since. I made the smallest size because I didn't want a baggy sweater and was afraid that the 33.5 was too close to my actual measurement (34). I don't think that the size I made was too small (even with the added ribbing for the bust and extra stitches picked up at the underarm), but I think I could have made it an inch or two longer. It's a lovely pattern, but I don't know if I will ever wear this sweater. I feel like a hoochie mama in it.

Cobblestones

2007-09-02T18:58:00.001-07:00

Pattern: Cobblestone Blocks (click on link)
Dimensions: 63" x 74"
Materials: 100% cotton fabrics, Warm and Natural White batting
Machine pieced
Machine Quilted by Jacci of Mill Creek Machine Quilting, South Portland, Maine
Started July 2, 2007
Finished August 14, 2007 (That includes sewing on the binding)

Comments: This is a really simple block that produces stunning results. I love this quilt so much that it's a good thing I didn't make it as a gift. The size is perfect for nesting on the couch and even works on a twin size bed.

Sahara

2007-07-02T18:34:00.001-07:00

Pattern: Sahara by Wendy Bernard purchased online from Stitch Diva Studios
Yarn: Jeannee by Plymouth Yarn (used just under 6 skeins for size small - 111 yards/skein)
Needles: Size 6 (Susan Bates 24" circular and Addi Turbo 16" circular) and 4 (Addi Turbo 24" circular and 16" Clover Bamboo)
Modifications: For the provisional cast on, I used the crochet chain method. Otherwise I made no other changes. I got exact stitch gauge with the yarn but a slightly shorter row gauge so I used the row count as written to obtain a shorter garment and it worked! I was very nervous about the negative ease, but the fit is perfect. If I made another (which I may do but with long sleeves) I think I'd make it a bit shorter in length by increasing more frequently after the waist. I would also make sure I had 2 selvage stitches on the neckline - I goofed and had 2 on one side and only 1 on the other.

Comments: This was a fun and easy knit with enough variety to keep me interested. I love the short row shaping for the sleeve caps and the side hems and the fit is exactly as expected. I wore this all day and garment held its shape throughout. The yarn was a dream to work with and very inexpensive.
I wore this without blocking and found that the sleeve seams could probably use some blocking only to keep the caps from rolling. They are a bit looser than I anticipated, even though I bound off using the same size needle and with regular tension.
Bottom line: This is definitely one sexy little knit!

Suplice Lace Top

2007-06-03T18:21:00.001-07:00

Pattern: Surplice Lace Top designed by Gayle Bunn in The North American Designer Collection No. 4 by Nashua Handknits
Materials: 7 skeins of Dale of Norway Svale color No. 7432 to make size small (used all but 1 yard!!!), Susan Bates circular needles in sizes 3 and 5.

Finished Measurements: Bust 33.5", underarm to hem length 12.25", total length 20.25"

Modifications: Substituted the Svale for the Nashua Handknits Natural Focus Ecologie Cotton and went down a needle size. Knit back and front each in one piece rather than casting off lower bodice and seaming together. (**see below for specific instruction).

Comments: I couldn't be happier with this sweater. The fit, the yarn and the pattern (with all of my tinkering) all came together perfectly. Even though the Svale was quite splitty, the drape is well worth it. I'm not even going to block it!

** How to knit front and back each in one piece (numbers given are for the size small, actual numbers will be different for other sizes):

For Back, when the pattern says to bind off lower body stitches, instead proceed to instruction for Back Bodice all the way to shoulder bind off (I didn't make any changes to shoulder shaping)

For Front, after the last row of the lower body stitches, instead of binding off 90 stitches, knit 35 stitches and place on scrap yarn for holder. On the next 55 stitches, work Right Front Bodice all the way to shoulder bind off. Pick up the 35 stitches held and then pick up 20 stitches from the back of the Right Front through the purl loops of the same row, counting this as row 1 or first RS row. Proceed to knit Left front as instructed through shoulder bind off. [For other sizes, all you need to do is figure out the difference between the total number of lower body stitches and the total number of stitches for each front. For example: for size Medium, the total number of lower body stitches is 94. The total number of bodice front stitches is 116 (58 + 58). 116-94=22. Subtract this number from the total left front bodice: 58-22=36. So, when you start the top bodice section, you would knit across 36 stitches and put them on a holder and then proceed to knit the remaining 58 stitches for the right front.]

Sew front to back at shoulder seams as instructed. For Neckband, begin picking up stitches from Right front as instructed, but pick up 1 stitch less. Continue picking up stitches but pick up twoe less stitches on the left front, then cast on one stitch extra. For the remainder of the neckband, on RS rows, pick up one extra stitch from top of lower bodice for the right front. On WS rows, increase one stitch on the left bodice front. When binding off, when you get to the last stitch of the right front bodice, pick up one more stitch from the top of the lower bodice and bind it off. Cut yarn and securely weave tail on the wrong side. Use scrap yarn to sew the edge of the left front bodice neckband to the wrong side of the lower front.

Fitted A-Line Skirt

2007-05-28T18:06:00.001-07:00

Pattern: McCall's #2129 View D (without the applique trim), size 10

Fabric/Materials: Summer City Urban Chicks Orange Blossom by Moda (1.5 yards), trim from Jo-Ann's.

Techniques: Basic Sewing, darts, zipper

Modifications: Added mini fringe to hem:

Comments: This has a higher waist and is more fitted than I prefer, but I still like it very much.

Low-rise Straight Skirt

2007-05-28T17:37:00.001-07:00

Pattern: New Look #6345, view A, size 12

Fabric/Materials: Amy Butler Belle Collection Brown/Kashmir (purchased 1.5 yds, used just over 1 yard) and Moda Uptown Daisy Days Brown Spa .25 yd (waist band facing), 1 pkg Wrights Medium Rick Rack (hem trim) in Aqua Blue.

Techniques: Basic sewing, zipper installation

Modifications: Added rick rack to hem and contrasting waist band facing.

Hem Detail:
View of contrasting fabric for the waist band facing:

Comments: I've made the shorter A-line version of this skirt in the same size (one size larger than my measurements call for) to obtain a lower rise. It worked somewhat, but this time, it feels a little too low. I had more than enough fabric left over to make another belt:

I "fussy cut" the belt by centering my strips over the pattern and was able to achieve the look of two different prints from the same fabric. The belt buckle is from jcarolinecreative and the pattern is my own.

Summer Blouse

2007-05-28T17:24:00.001-07:00

Pattern: Simplicity It's so Easy #3842 (view B) Size 8

Fabric: Sofia Cotton Lawn by Robert Kaufman 1.5 yds (pattern calls for 1.75 yds) plus .25 yd of white cotton from JoAnn Fabrics

Techniques: Basic sewing, gathers, rolled hems, bias tape facing

Modifications: Used contrasting fabric for front insert and added lace trim. Cut ties on the grain rather than on the bias and folded in half twice rather then sewing a tube.

Comments: I love the fit of this and the pattern was relatively easy, but required careful attention to detail. The armholes are a bit too peek-a-boo for my taste, so I will be sewing them up a little more. Diagrams for view B in the pattern instructions do not match the actual sleeve length, which caused me to take a second look at the pattern pieces. The next time I make this top, I may omit the insert, opting to wear a cami under it instead. Because of the sleeve construction, this pattern works best with light weight fabric with good drape. A heavier fabric would result in "wings".

Easy Tote Bag

2007-05-18T20:01:00.001-07:00

This sturdy square bottom bag is perfect to tote around fabric, yarn, books, groceries or anything else. Once you master the construction, make it your own by changing the dimensions, adding pockets, contrasting bands, applique or trim. Instructions are provided for an optional ribbon embellished handle. This version does not have a pocket, but one (or more) can easily be added to the lining before you sew it to the outside.
MATERIALS NEEDED:

1/2 yard each of two coordinating cotton fabrics
1/2 yard of cotton duck cloth (a light weight canvas)
1 yard of Heat'n Bond Lite
1 & 1/2 yards of 1 inch wide cotton or nylon belt webbing
one spool of thread that matches both fabrics and handle

Optional for decorated handle:

1 & 1/2 yards of 7/8" ribbon
glue stick

Supplies: You will also need a sewing machine, iron and board, pencil, and ruler. Rotary cutting supplies (mat, ruler and rotary cutter) are recommended for accuracy, but are not necessary to make the bag.
About seams: Unless otherwise stated, all seams are 1/4 inch. A quarter inch foot, used by quilters, is very handy. It has a blade on the right hand side that acts as a guide for your fabric. They are sold at most shops that sell sewing machines. The one shown below is made for a low shank machine and fits both my Elna and Janome.
If you do not have this foot, some machines allow you to adjust your needle position so that the needle falls exactly 1/4 inch from the right edge of your sewing foot. The needle position can also be adjusted with the zig zag dial or button. If you cannot adjust your needle, then you can eyeball it by using the edge of your foot as a visual guide. The most important thing is to be consistent with all seams.

CUTTING INSTRUCTIONS:

From each of your cotton fabrics, the canvas and the Heat'n Bond, cut two 15 1/2 inch squares. (How easy is that?)

This is done easily and accurately with a rotary cutter. If you do not have one, using a ruler, draw a 15 & 1/2 inch square on a paper grocery bag, newspaper, or on a piece of interfacing and use as a pattern.

Prep for optional for Handle embellishment:

If you wish to use an embellished handle, take your webbing and run a glue stick down the center of the entire length. Center the ribbon on webbing and press firmly down the length of the ribbon (it doesn't stick very well, so don't panic if it seems like it isn't working). Set aside to dry while you sew the bag.

Step 1:
Place one square of the Heat'n Bond on the wrong side our your outside bag fabric with the rough shiny side of the Heat'n Bond facing the wrong side of your fabric, matching all edges. The dull paper side will be facing up. With your iron set on Silk (no steam), fuse the Heat'n Bond to your fabric, beginning in the center and slowly moving outward in each direction (this prevents bubbles). Do not slide, but lift and fuse, overlapping each time. Go over the edges once more. Flip over and iron on the right side of the fabric. Set aside and allow to cool. Repeat with the other square of outside fabric and Heat'n Bond.
Once your squares are cool, peel the paper away from your fabric squares. The back of your fabric is now coated with adhesive. Throw paper away.
Step 2:
Position one of your outside fabric squares over one of the canvas squares, matching all edges. The shiny side with adhesive will be facing the canvas. Fuse as in step 1 above. Repeat with other square.
Step 3:
If your fabric has a directional print or stripes, mark the top on the back of the canvas with a pencil or piece of tape. Put your two fused outside fabric squares right sides together ("RST"), matching raw edges. Sew around three sides, keeping the top side open if you have a directional fabric, backstitching at beginning and end. Do not turn right side out.
Step 4:
Make corner gussets as follows: reach into one corner of the bag, and open out the corner, matching the seams in the center. It is very important that the seams are lined up on both sides, so take your time.
Measure down 2 inches from the very tip of the sewn corner (not the raw edge), and draw a line perpendicular to the stitching.
Pin in place. Repeat with other corner.
Sew on the line you drew, backstitching at beginning and end. Repeat for other corner.
Trim off corners about 1/4 inch from the stitching line.
Turn bag right side out. Press seams to one side.
Step 5:
Place your two squares of lining fabric RST. This time you will be leaving an opening at the bottom center about 7 inches wide. Mark the opening with pins or a pencil. Begin by sewing down the right side, turn corner and stop at the place you marked on the bottom, being sure to backstitch at beginning and end. Start again at the other side of the opening in the bottom (backstitching to secure) and continue across bottom, turn corner and stitch right side. Trim threads.

Make corner gussets for the lining as you did for the bag outside. Do not turn bag right side out. Press seams to the opposite side that you pressed the bag outside. Set lining aside.

Step 6:
Optional embellished handles: (If you are not embellishing handles, skip this step and proceed to Step 7). With the ribbon side up, top stitch the right side with the smallest seam allowance you can. When you get to the end, turn the corner and continue to top stitch the other side. Go slowly as the ribbon likes to wiggle, even when glued.
Step 7:
Cut webbing in half and trim each half to 21 inches. Tip: If using nylon web, very lightly touch the ends to your iron to sear the edges and keep them from unraveling. If using cotton webbing, zig zag stitch the ends.

Take the outside of your bag, and measure in 3 and 1/2 inches from the seam. Pin one side of the handle to the bag as shown.

VERY IMPORTANT NOTE: If you want the embellished part of your handle to face out, then it should be facing the bag at this point, not you. Do not follow the photographs. For this bag, I chose to have the embellished part of the handle on the inside - see photo of finished bag for result.

Measure in 3 and 1/2 inches on the other side of the bag, pinning the other end of the handle in place, being sure not to twist it. Machine baste in place using 1/8 " seam allowance.
Step 8:
Slip the outside of your bag into the lining - RST - tucking handles in between the layers, not up.

Pull lining up until the raw edges of your lining match the raw edges of your outside bag. Match up seams and pin. (NOTE: Seams match up better if they are pressed in opposite directions. If at this point you see that both seams were pressed in the same direction, finger press the lining seam in the opposite directions. This allows the seams to "lock" in place and makes them less bulky and easier to sew).
Pin all the way around the raw edges.

If you have a free arm sewing machine, remove the base extension.

Sew outer bag and lining together as pinned using a 1/4 " seam allowance (this is the only point in the bag construction where this really matters).

Step 9:
This is the fun part! Remember that opening in the bottom of the lining?

Reach in there and grab your outer bag...
and pull it through! Wasn't that cool?
Press in the edges of the opening 1/4 inch.
Hand or machine stitch the opening to close.
Push your lining into the bag and tug and smooth it down. You will see that about 1/4 inch of the lining shows on the outside of the bag. Although it means that your lining is a wee bit shy of the bottom of the bag, it does add a nice decorative element. If you do not like this, then boss that lining around and tug it in place so that the seam is right at the top. In the next step you will top stitch 1/4 inch from the top instead of in the seam.

Press firmly all around the top. Pin in place if needed. If you used a ribbon with painted decoration, be sure to avoid touching it with your iron as it will melt the decoration. Cover handles with a piece of fabric to protect it.

Step 10:
Finish your bag by top stitching in the seam between the lining that shows at the top and the bag - this is called "stitch in the ditch". If you pulled your lining all the way down, just top stitch 1/4 inch from the edge as stated above.
Flip handles up and stitch each one in place - backstitching all the way backwards and then forwards again to reinforce.
You're done!Fill your bag with goodies and go show it off!

How to clean your sewing machine 101

2007-05-03T19:07:00.000-07:00

Whether you bought it new 5 years ago and only used it once, inherited it from Aunt Mabel, or have been using it for years, your sewing machine is a mechanical (perhaps even computerized) tool that needs to be cleaned and maintained in order to perform well. This is a guide for cleaning your machine. It is not meant as a replacement for full service of your machine, which can be done at your local dealer or machine shop. How often you have your machine serviced depends on how often you use your machine (anywhere between every 6 months to once a year), but keeping it clean and oiled in the meantime will help keep it in good shape. Every time you sew, little fibers from the thread and fabric collect in your machine. You will be amazed at what lurks beneath your throat plate!

Note: I learned how to clean my machine from a lecture given by the owner of a local sewing machine dealer. The following instructions apply to machines with a top loading bobbin. Depending on the age and brand of your machine, some of the directions and/or photographs may not apply to what you have. When disassembling your machine, do not force any screws or remove any parts that do not give easily!!! If in doubt, leave it alone!

Tools you will need:

Q-Tip brand cotton swabs (they are the least likely to come apart and leave a mess)
High quality paper towels, like Bounty
sewing machine oil (I use Dritz purchased at JoAnn Fabrics)
Firm bristled brush (many machines come with one)
Tweezers

Please note that the above list does not include pressurized canned air (like the kind you use to clean keyboards). DO NOT USED CANNED AIR! It can blow fibers and lint deep into the interior of your machine and wreak havoc!

First, turn off your machine and unplug it (safety first). Remove any feet.

With a Philips head screwdriver, or the tool provided with your machine, unscrew the large screw on the throat plate, usually located in the upper left. Remove bobbin cover.

Remove throat plate. Prepare to be ~~grossed out~~ amazed.

See all of that stuff that looks like felt? That's the accumulation of lint from many, many projects sewn over a period of 10 years. It is not supposed to look like this!

Remove bobbin casing.

With a pair of tweezers (the longer and thinner the better) begin removing lint. Be sure to check all around the bobbin well. There is a tiny little hole in the center of it that may have a piece of firm fiber-like stuff in it. Do not try to pull this out, but remove any lint covering it.

Looks better already!

This is all of the junk that was embedded in this machine.

Once you have removed all large pieces of lint, use a firm brush to remove any smaller fibers, taking care not to brush it further into the machine.

On some machines (especially older models) you can open the side door. If so, clean this area and accessible parts as you did under the throat plate.

Pour small amounts of oil onto the tip of your cotton swab, and clean up any residual lint and fibers that were not picked up by the tweezers and lint. Clean around all movable parts, taking care around rough surfaces so that you don't leave cotton fibers behind.

Use a clean paper towel to wipe off any residual oil .

Now THIS is what it is supposed to look like!

Replace the bobbin casing, screw the throat plate back on, and put the bobbin cover back on. Do not put a foot on or insert a needle at this time.

Turn it on. Now, "put the pedal to the medal" and run your machine for about 3 minutes, non-stop.

Then, insert a loaded bobbin, attach foot and needle, and thread your machine. Using scrap fabric, sew around for a while to soak up any residual oil.

All Done! Sew for fun!

How often should you do this? It is recommended that you do it after each sewing project, but I try to do it after every 2nd or 3rd project, unless I am working with fuzzy fabric or batting.

For more tips on caring for your machine and troubleshooting common problems, see the following links:

fabrics.net
sewing.about.com
sewandserge.com

Reversible Fabric Belt

2007-04-29T10:20:00.000-07:00

Make a reversible belt to show off your favorite fabrics! It's easy, inexpensive and quick!

Materials:

1/8 yard each of two cotton fabrics that compliment each other (the kind used for quilting, often referred to as "calico") ** See Important Note on Sizing under Step 1 below
1/4 yard of medium weight fusible interfacing (usually comes about 22" wide - I used Pellon, available at Jo-Ann Fabrics) ** See Important Note on Sizing under Step 1 below
thread that matches both fabrics (load bobbin with same thread)
slide style belt buckle - the one shown was purchased from jcarolinecreative.com
scissors
tape measure
pins
sewing machine
hand sewing needle
iron
pen for marking
yardstick
Optional: rotary cutting supplies

Step 1: Put on your favorite pants that you like to wear with a belt. Thread the tape measure through the belt loops as though it were a belt, and note the measurement. Now add 9.5 inches to this number. (For example: 33" + 9.5" = 42.4")

** Important Note on sizing: Most cotton fabrics are 44 to 45 inches wide. If you need a longer belt, purchase more fabric and cut 2 strips from each fabric. Join ends, matching any obvious prints, and press seams open. If you do not want this seam to be at the center back, plan it so that the seam is closer to one end or on the side, before cutting in Step 4. You may also need to purchase more fusible interfacing.

Step 2: Measure the opening of your belt buckle. This is the width that you will be cutting your interfacing. Add 1 inch to this number. This is width that you will be cutting your fabric strips.

Step 3: Press your cotton fabrics, but do not open up the fold. If you have rotary cutting supplies, cut one width of fabric strip from each of your cotton fabrics using the measurement determined above - remember, this is 1 inch more that the width of your belt opening - or 2 strips if making a longer belt.

If you do not have a rotary cutter, you will need to draw your lines before cutting as follows: With the fold of the fabric closest to you, draw a line perpendicular to the fold using your yardstick and pen, close to the raw edge of the fabric. (To make sure that your line is perpendicular, you may want to use another ruler to create a T-square.) From this line, measure the desired width and make a tic mark with your pen in 2 or 3 places. With your yardstick, line up the tic marks and draw a second line parallel to the first. Cut on lines. It is less important that the fabric strips are perfectly even.

Step 4: Trim your cotton fabric strips to the length determined in Step 1 (remember, this is 9.5 inches more than your waist/hip measurement), lengthening strips as needed as mentioned above to adjust sizing.

Step 5: Cut 4 strips of interfacing the width of your belt buckle opening as in Step 3 (cut 5 strips if your belt will be larger than 43 inches). It is very important that all of these strips are cut to the same width, because this will be the base of your belt.

Step 6: Center one strip of interfacing on the WRONG side of one of your fabric strips, exactly 1/2 inch from the end of the fabric (it does not have to be perfectly centered, just eyeball it) and fuse according to the manufacturer's instructions. Note that one side of the interfacing has tiny dots of glue on it. Make sure that this is the side facing your fabric; you don't want to fuse it to your iron!

Step 7: Lay your second strip of interfacing on wrong side of the same fabric, overlapping the ends about 1/4 inch. Quick fuse the join. Smooth out the interfacing to the end of your cotton fabric and trim off any excess. Fuse the remainder from the join to the end, adding any extra needed to adjust for sizing as noted above. Turn fabric to RIGHT side facing you and iron once more. Repeat this step with your other fabric strip.

Step 8: With the WRONG side of the fabric facing you, fold the edges inward and press, being careful not to fold the interfacing. Do this with both fabric pieces. Turn fabric with RIGHT side facing and press again.

Step 9: Take your two strips and pin the fused ends together with the RIGHT SIDES FACING EACH OTHER, making sure all edges match.

Sew the ends together using a 3/8 inch seam allowance.

Trim seam to just over 1/8 inch to reduce bulk.

With RIGHT side facing, press seam towards one side (you don't need to open it).

Step 10: Time for a sneak preview! Slide each end of your fabric through the belt buckle opening, and pin the two sides together close to the buckle end.

Try on your belt and see what you think!

Step 11: Fold the extra 1/2 inch of fabric over the edge of the ends of your belt (this is the 1/2 inch you left unfused in Step 6) and press.

Find the center of your belt and mark with a pen (top view in photo below):

Fold the corners towards this mark as though you were making a paper airplane (bottom view in photo above). Press with iron.

Beginning with the points, match the two ends of your belt together with wrong sides facing each other, and pin down the center all the way to the buckle. If one side of your belt is a little wider than the other (as mine is), make sure you do your top-stitching on this side (one of my fabrics was a little heavier that the other, and this slight variation made a difference).

Step 12: Beginning at the end of your belt, just before the angle of the point, begin top-stitching with your machine as closely to the edge as you can (1/8 inch or less). I use the edge of my presser foot as a visual guide.

Keep sewing in a straight line towards the buckle end as far as you can go. You will not be able to sew all the way to the buckle. DO NOT TRY TO FORCE IT! When you feel the buckle hit your presser foot, stop and backstitch.

Now go back to the place were you started, backstitching a few times, and proceed down the other side of the belt towards the buckle, stopping at the same point as the opposite side. Trim all threads. You're almost done!

Step 13: Thread a sharp needle with about 20 inches of the same thread you have been sewing with and knot the end. At the same place where you stopped sewing before the buckle, insert the needle between the two layers of your belt and pull so that knot is buried. Be sure to trim off any tail from the end of your knot. Following the same lines you machine stitched, use a double running stitch to sew the remainder of your belt together, ending about 1/4 inch shy of the buckle and working several extra stitches at the very end to make it secure (this means doubling back more than once).

Do not fret if your stitches are not perfectly straight and even; once you have your belt on, you won't even be able to see them!

Put your new belt on and dance around the room singing: "I made it! I made it!". Take belt off, turn to the other side and repeat!

Enjoy!

Sleeveless Blouse

2007-04-29T09:51:00.000-07:00

Pattern: New Look Pattern No. 6677 (View E)

Materials: Focus fabric: cotton lawn (Robert Kaufman fabrics - Sophia) contrasting: quilter's cotton from JoAnn Fabrics.

Techniques: Basic machine sewing, curved piecing, gathers

Comments: I am really happy with the way this came out. I just love the colors: so springy and delicate. It looks much better in person and less like a maternity top. I suppose it could use some ties to add more waist emphasis, but it will be very comfy to wear this summer! The curved piecing required for the neckline was quite challenging, but I'd still make another one.

Cabo Halter

2007-04-22T21:01:00.000-07:00

Pattern: Cabo Halter by Amy Butler

Materials: Cotton Fabric purchased at JoAnn Fabrics (used approx 1.75 yards).

Techniques: Machine Sewing, invisible zipper installation

Comments: I like how this turned out, and the fit is as I expected. I made the "modesty" alteration recommended in the pattern and sewed the fronts together. I was happy for this alternative, not wanting to look like a hoochie mama. I had a bit of trouble with the zipper, even though this was not my first experience installing an invisible zipper (I ended up melting some of the teeth. Thankfully, I can still pull this over my head without using the zipper!!!) This pattern is better suited for an intermediate sewer with some knowledge of garment construction. The darts for my size did not line up properly (I trace my patterns onto light weight interfacing, so I know that it was the pattern, and not my mistake), and the instructions for joining the upper fronts should have made reference to the 2 markers rather than the center line. In addition, the yardage requirement printed on the pattern was incorrect, calling for 2.5 yards for all sizes. I found the correction while googling around, but it is not shown on the link to the pattern (I think it should be easier to find errata).

Despite all my kvetching, I will make another one if I wear this one.

This-n-That Purse

2007-04-19T10:08:00.000-07:00

Pattern: "This and That Bag" designed by Sherri K. Falls (I can't find a link for the pattern anywhere) purchased at Cotton Weeds Quilt Shop newly relocated to Freeport, Maine.

Materials: 5 inch charm squares from the Chez Moi by Sentimental Studios collection by Moda, purchased at Mariner's Compass Quilt Shop in Bath, cotton fabrics for lining and bottom from stash, buttons from stash.

Techniques: Machine piecing, machine quilting, basic sewing

The other side:

Comments: This was an easy and well written pattern (took about 3 hours), but hand-stitching the zipper was a pain. More views and comments in original post here.

Bow Tucks Tote

2007-04-15T10:01:00.000-07:00

Pattern: Bow Tucks Tote by Quiltillustrated.com

Materials: Cotton fabric and pewter button from JoAnn's Fabrics

Techniques: Basic sewing, machine quilting.

Comments: This is a very well-written pattern that sews up quickly once all of the pieces are cut. It's quite a roomy tote, perfect for knitting or what have you, with lots of inside pockets and these neat little bows which magically transform the appearance of the bag from tote to large purse.

This bag offers a great way to showcase a beautiful button.

Bunny

2007-04-08T09:56:00.000-07:00

Pattern: free pattern from Heartstrings Fiber Arts

Materials: using leftover kid mohair held together with some Dolly Maxi on size 6 Brittany Birch needles.

Comments: The only modification I made to the pattern was in the ear decreases. I followed the instructions for Barbara White's ears and substituted this:

4) K2tog, K3
5) K2tog, P1, K1
6) SSK, K1
7) P2tog

My bunny is a bit chubby and has no tail yet because I haven't decided which method I prefer.

Fabric Baskets

2007-04-08T09:53:00.000-07:00

Pattern: Wrapped fabric coil construction based on techniques presented in the book It's A Wrap by Susan Breier, as modified by Carol McLeod.

Materials: Top basket, Kaffe Fassett cotton fabric, bottom basket, assorted cottons purchased at JoAnn Fabrics, cotton clothesline.

Techniques: Machine sewing and patience.

Comments: The preparation takes the a lot of time, but it is well worth it. These are really fun to make!
Inside Bottom:
Second version, with handles added.

See more comments and photos in original post here.

Aunt Grace Wall Hanging

2007-04-05T09:41:00.000-07:00

Pattern: Wall Hanging designed by Bloom Creek for Marcus Brothers (click on link for free pattern)

Materials: Kit purchased at the Quilt Shop at Vac'n Sew in Conway, NH, using 5 inch charm squares from the Aunt Grace 15th Anniversary Collection by Judie Rothermel and other 30's reproduction fabrics.

Techniques: Machine piecing, machine quilting

Comments: I felt that the charm square collection did not offer enough yellow and orange so I added some. The border differs the pattern because I didn't square up my blocks before piecing. After quilting it, I felt like it needed a little something extra, so I added pearl buttons to the center of the colored blocks.

Central Park Hoodie

2007-03-06T09:30:00.000-08:00

Pattern: Central Park Hoodie from Interweave Knitscene, Fall 2006

Materials: Mystery yarn purchased at Central Yarn in Portland: 2 ply merino and cashmere, buttons purchased at JoAnn Fabrics

Comments: What can I say about this sweater that everyone else hasn't said already? It's perfect and I love it. I shortened the sleeves by one inch and they are still too long, but I don't mind.

Shedir

2007-01-07T16:44:00.000-08:00

Pattern: "Shedir" from Knitty, Fall 2004 Surprises for Breast Cancer Awareness Month

Yarn: Rowan Felted Tweed (color #155)

Comments: See original post here.

Felted Sheep

2007-01-02T08:28:00.000-08:00

Pattern: From "A Felt Flock" by Fiber Trends

Materials: Lambs Pride Worsted (cream) and Malabrigo Worsted (black).

Comments: This was quick and easy knit, with lots of short row shaping. However, it took about 5 cycles in the washing machine to felt.

Casco Bay Cabled Cap

2006-12-31T10:30:00.000-08:00

My own design inspired by a store-bought hat. Free pattern below.

Short version (fits my 21.5 inch head just above ear lobes)

Long version (covers my ear lobes, and on my husband's 23.5 inch head falls just above ear lobes)

Crown detail

Casco Bay Cable Cap

Sizes: Will fit head circumference of 21 to 23.5 inches. The short version measures 7.25 inches from crown and the long version measures 8 inches from crown. Instructions for an extra long version (not shown) are also included

Gauge: both yarns used call for a gauge of 4.5 stitches to the inch on size 8 needles in stockinette stitch.

Yarn: About 125 yards of worsted weight yarn (I used leftover stash so this is a generous guess). Short version is knit in Malabrigo Merino Worsted in color "Natural" and long version is knit in Lamb's Pride Worsted in color "Victorian Pink".

Needles: 16 inch circulars in sizes 6 and 8. Set of size 8 double pointed needles ("dpns")

Notions: stitch marker, darning needle to secure ends

Stitch guide:

C3F - slip 3 stitches to cable needle (cn) and hold in front, knit 3 from left needle, then knit the 3 stitches from cn.

Instructions:
(numbers in parenthesis are for long version, followed by extra long version)

With smaller circular needles, cast on 108 stitches, place marker and join in the round being careful not to twist stitches.
Knit in k1, p1 rib for 13 (15,17) rows
Continuing with smaller needles, work set up pattern round as follows: [k2, p2, k6, p2] to end of round.
Change to larger circular needles
Work in pattern as established in set up round [k2, p2, k6, p2] for 5 (7, 9) rounds
On round 6 (8, 10): [k2, p2, C3F, p2] to end of round.
Work in pattern [k2, p2, k6, p2] for 11 rounds for all sizes. NOTE: from this point on, the directions are the same for all sizes.
Next round [k2, p2, C3F, p2] to end of round.
Work in pattern for one round.
First Decrease Round: k1, [k2tog, p2, k6, p2] to end of round (99 stitches).
Work 7 rounds as follows: [k1,p2, k6, p2] to end of round.
Second Decrease Round: (switch to dpns when needed) k1, k2tog to end (50 stitches).
Knit 7 rounds even.
Final Decrease Round: k2tog around (25 stitches).
Cut yarn leaving a 10 inch tail and draw these 25 stitches together, running tail through "live" stitches twice, and secure on wrong side. Weave in ends.

Please feel free to e-mail me with any questions or comments: tarilynATgmailDOTcom. I would love to see how yours comes out and will post photos with links in my main blog!

Aran Lamb Ornaments

2006-12-31T07:42:00.000-08:00

Pattern: "Mary's Little Lamb" by Buttermilk Designs (their website seems to be defunct, but the kit is availlable at Patternworks).

Yarn: the top lamb was made using the yarn provided in a kit with the pattern. The one on the bottom is knit with Dale of Norway Tiur. Both were knit with size 2 needles.

Comments: Love this little sheep, but I added ears and a tail to mine :)

Rover Cover

2006-12-31T07:38:00.000-08:00

Pattern: "Rover Cover" from Knitter's Summer 2001 issue

Yarn: Lion Brand Wool Ease in Color #107 Blue Heather (less than one skein).

Comments: I knit this in the size XS for my mother's tiny Papillon who weights 5 pounds, adding an extra 1/2 inch to the chest length and an extra 2 inches to the body length, but it came out too small for him. This was my first experience with the Wool Ease. I didn't like the feel of it at first, but it wasn't so bad after while. Good thing since I have to do it again!

Here's the second version, modeled by the recipient:

Coral Crossing

2006-12-31T07:34:00.000-08:00

Pattern: "Coral Crossing" designed by Jennifer L. Appleby and featured in Interweave Knits Fall 2006

Yarn: "Peru DK Luxury" in color #03 (70% Merino, 20% Alpaca, 10% Silk) purchased at AC Moore (See more about this yarn at Knitter's Review Forum).

Size: XS (32.5)

Started October 27 and finished December 3, 2006.

Comments: I love the way the cables "pop" in this yarn and I don't know when my ribbing has ever looked so good, but there were quite a few odd slubs of pink plied into the yarn that I frequently teased out. Sometimes I didn't notice them until after they had been knit in, and it wasn't easy to disengage them. The pattern was well written and I didn't make any modifications. That said, even though I blocked all pieces to the measurements given in the pattern, it didn't fit the way I had anticipated and was a little baggy in places, although it doesn't look it in these photos. I soaked the entire sweater in cold water (very minimal bleeding) and re-blocked it, but was still unsatisfied with the fit. I have since given it away to a friend who wears it much better than I would have.

Hollyhock Vase Wall Hanging

2006-12-14T22:09:00.000-08:00

Pattern: "Hollyhock Vase" from Vintage Blooms by Pat Sloan purchased at JoAnn Fabrics

Materials: Cotton fabric from stash

Techniques: Fused machine applique, machine quilting

Comments: Reduced pattern size by 50%, omitted pieced border

Sheep Star Pillow

2006-12-03T22:10:00.000-08:00

Pattern: from Trio of Seep Stars by Buttermilk Basin

Materials: cotton fabric, wool, stuffing

Techniques: Penny Rug Applique, machine sewing, empbroidery

Another Soule Mama Hat

2006-11-25T10:49:00.000-08:00

Yarn: Lamb's Pride Worsted in color M -10 Creme
Pattern: My Hat of Choice found in Soule Mama's Blog here
Started November 24 and finished November 25
Modifications: Added one extra repeat of lace pattern and extra row of decreases (k2tog) at crown.
Comments: Still my favorite bad hair day hat!

Flower Power Totes

2006-11-07T22:02:00.000-08:00

Pattern: My own, designed for my quilting group's Flower Power themed Getaway weekend. See more about the event and student's work in this post.

Materials: (Left bag) Vintage flower print fabric from stash, striped fabric purchased at JoAnn fabrics. Flowers from stash. (Right bag) Amy Butler fabrics from the Ginger Bliss collection, flowers and buttons from stash. Letter brads from JoAnn fabrics. (Both bags) webbing and ribbon purchased at JoAnn Fabrics.

Techniques: Hand and machine sewing.

Garter Rib Socks

2006-10-31T17:55:00.001-08:00

Pattern: Garter Rib from Sensational Knitted Socks

Yarn: Meilenweit Fantasy by Lana Grossa (1 skein in Color 4833) on size 1 needles

Started September 5, 2006 and finished October 31, 2006, just in time for Socktoberfest.

Gesta

2006-10-31T17:55:00.000-08:00

Pattern: Gesta from Cornelia Tuttle Hamilton's "Hand Knitting Collection, Book No. 2" (Size 34)

Yarn: Noro Kocheran (color No. 1) Pattern called for 3 skeins, could have used only 2, but I dug into the third to match stripes on the right front after the center neck stitches were put on hold. Used size 10.5 needles.

Started October 25 and finished October 27, 2006.

Comments: This was a really fast and fun knit. The pattern was very simple, but is better suited for an intermediate knitter, only because it didn't write out the armhole instructions for the front - not even so much as a "and at the same time, decrease stitches at armhole edge as for back". As a result, I had to write it out myself to keep track.

Patchwork Tote

2006-10-15T22:04:00.000-07:00

Pattern: My own

Materials: Stash fabric, buttons purchased at Jo-Ann Fabrics.

Started and Finished October 15, 2006

Olive (f/k/a "Project Walkway")

2006-10-14T14:33:00.000-07:00

Pattern: My own design

Yarn: Petite Boucle by Knit One Crochet Two (color #551 8 skeins)

Started August 28, 2006 and finished October 28, 2006

For the birth of this project see Lessons Learned and Plan B posts in my blog.

Comments: Oh my God, I can't believe this actually worked!! This is my all time favorite sweater!

Felted Pumpkin

2006-10-14T14:31:00.000-07:00

Pattern: Pumpkins from Knitty found here

Yarn: Patons Classic Wool (the pumpkin) and Cascade 220 (the stem/vine)

Started Fall 2005 and finished October 9, 2006

Comments: If you make this, be sure to tie your pumpkin really really tightly with twine before throwing it in the wash and make sure the bags can't come out.

Coneflower Basket Wall Hanging

2006-10-09T22:08:00.000-07:00

Pattern: "Coneflower Basket" from Vintage Blooms by Pat Sloan published by Leisure Arts.

Materials: Stash fabric.

Techniques: Raw edge machine applique. Machine quilted.

Comments: I reduced the pattern size by 50% and substituted a plain border for the pieced one in the pattern

Memoirs Ribbed Hat

2006-09-15T15:09:00.000-07:00

Yarn: Berrocco Memoirs (1 skein)

September 10 - 15, 2006

Pattern: 2 x 2 rib on size 9 needles.

Seduced by color, I made this on a whim. It's not really my style, so I will probably donate it to Head to Toes, an organization that provides assistance to the homeless, which my quilting chapter will be collecting donations for at our area meeting in October.

Nautie

2006-09-10T16:05:00.000-07:00

Pattern from Knitty, Spring 2006 found here

Yarn: Noro Kureyon (shell) and Lamb's Pride Worsted (face)

Started and finished September 10, 2006

Comments: I made this little nautiloid for a marine biologist friend who teaches high school. It sure is cute, but I'm never going to make another one so take a good look. Worsted weight yarn + size 4 needles = hand torture.

Baby cable rib socks

2006-09-04T12:49:00.000-07:00

Pattern: from "Sensational Knitted Socks" by Charlene Schurch

Yarn: Super Glitz by Cherry Tree Hill (1 skein, size 3 needles)

Started: August 19 and finished September 3, 2006

Comments: Other than the large section on one sock missing glitter, I have no complaints - you can't even see it in the photo! Love the pattern and will try others in this book.

Tilia

2006-08-29T17:48:00.000-07:00

Tilia

Elsebeth Lavold's Designer's Choice Book Eight: The Enchanted Garden Collection

Yarn: Silky Wool color #2 used 6 skeins for size Small (pattern called for 5 skeins!!!)

Started July 30 and finished August 28, 2006

Comments: As far as sweaters go, this one ranks "feh". The pattern was well written and easy to follow and the yarn was very forgiving. I love the fabric, color, drape and the feel of the sweater, but it just didn't live up to my expectations. There were many warning signs along the way (see further comments here) that I ignored, but I think this is one of those instances where I was drawn in by how the garment looked on the model (whose figure is very different than mine). However, I did learn a few nifty techniques:

1. Instead of putting stitches on a holder, bind off in a different color yarn
2. Short row shaping without the wrap - it really worked! Just turn - how simple!

If the sweater looks a little lumpy and dumpy, it's because I wore it all day. At least it's an accurate representation. No trick photography here!

Other things I learned:

1. If the voices tell you that it isn't going to work, listen! No matter how much you knit, it wont get any better. Trust your instincts.
2. You will never be a stick insect of a girl. Love it or not, you have curves! Do not be lured in by skinny boy-shaped models.
3. If buying yarn at a closeout sale, get extra no matter what the pattern calls for. Especially if said yarn is $3 a skein!!

Soleil

2006-08-27T13:21:00.000-07:00

Soleil from Knitty: Spring 2005

Yarn: Plymouth Yarn Royal Bamboo color #13 (7 skeins for size 33 on size 6 Susan Bates circular needles)

Started July 9 and finished August 25, 2006 (the agony)

Comments: This yarn was very splitty and slippery to knit with but made a beautiful fabric. The first time I made this pattern I used Wilflower DK and the sweater came out smaller. Perhaps this yarn stretched a bit more in the blocking. Here we see how trick photography (and a very good friend) can make anything look good:

This is how the sweater looks when I am standing up. Girls, sometimes gravity is a good thing (but only if you are lying down).

Bonita Shirt

2006-08-25T21:34:00.000-07:00

Yarn: Mystery sport weight bamboo and wool blend found at Hub Mills outlet store in Lowell, MA.

Started June 24 and finished July 9, 2006

Comments: (size 34 1/4) I substituted yarns because cotton is too mean to knit with, and the mystery yarn worked perfectly. I followed the pattern exactly and only omitted the embroidery. Unfortunately, I got a little carried away when blocking and stretched it a bit too much. I only need to re-wet and do it again, but it has been so humid this summer that I haven't done it yet. This photo does not do this sweater justice. I really love it.

Jaywalker Socks

2006-08-25T21:32:00.000-07:00

by Grumperina

Pattern found here

Yarn: Koigu KPPPM in color #P219 (2 skeins)

Started (first sock) December 2005 and finished second sock June 21, 2006

Comments: I messed up somewhere with the slipped stitches after the gusset and slipped with the yarn in front so I had to do it again on the second sock. Nearly broke my needles on this one (size 1 Brittany Birch). Although I love the way these look (the color reminds me of Deering Ice Cream "Peppermint Stick") I did not enjoy knitting them. Maybe I'll try again on metal needles.

Caftan Pullover

2006-08-25T21:31:00.000-07:00

Caftan Pullover

Pattern by Norah Gaughan, Interweave Knits Spring 2006

Yarn: Berroco Ultra Silk color #6111 (Used just over 13 of the 16 skeins called for to knit size 35)

Started May 6 and finished June 13, 2006

Comments: I fell head over heels in love with this pattern the moment I got this issue in the mail. I only made a few adjustments to the pattern. I shortened both the sleeves and the body by 3 inches, seamed the bottom 3rd panel of cable insert together (it pooched out in a very unflattering way) and omitted the buttons (they would have been obscenely placed). The yarn was wonderful to knit with and the pattern was fun, interesting and easy to follow. I do find that the yarn snags very easily (it's a very finely woven tube of silk over a center core) and that I have to be careful not to wear it around roughly finished wood.

Green Gables

2006-08-25T21:29:00.000-07:00

Green Gable #1 (pattern available for purchase here)

Yarn: Brown Sheep Cotton Fleece in Truffle (used just over 2 skeins)

Started May 29 and finished June 2, 2006

Comments: I made the size 34 and added 2 extra rows before removing the sleeve stitches. I also added shaping (after sleeves stitches removed, I knit 5 inches then decreased every 6th round 5 times, knit 10 rows even, then increased on the next and every 6th row 3 times before ribbing) and added 3 rows of stockinette to the sleeves before doing the ribbing. Even though there is wool in this yarn, I wore this sweater on a very hot day and was surprisingly comfortable. It wears very well.

Green Gable #2

Yarn: Wick by Knit One Crochet Too (6 skeins)

Started June 3 and Finished June 10, 2006

Comments: What can I say? I liked it so much I made it again. This time I added an extra stitch to the sleeve section as well as my previous modifications. The yarn is a little weird though. I never quite got over the feeling that I was knitting with plastic, even if there is soy in it. Also, the color pooled oddly. One of my friend's first comments on seeing this was "Hoochie Mama!". I've only worn it once.

Ruffled Edge Cardigan

2006-08-25T21:26:00.000-07:00

Yarn: Debbie Bliss Baby Cashmerino in color #340602 (9 skeins purchased, used 8+)

Started April 7 and finished May 22, 2006

Comments: I wanted to make this sweater long before I found this pattern after seeing this. (Pretty interesting hmm. I wonder which came first? ). I knit the size 33 1/2 (small) using Addi Turbos in sizes 1 and 2. The only changes I made were to add short row shaping and 3 needle bind off to the shoulders and to slant the decrease stitches in the directions of the shaping. I really love this sweater.

Gypsy Mesh

2006-08-25T18:42:00.000-07:00

Yarn: TLC Cotton Plus (5 skeins for smallest size)

Started June 7 and finished August 6, 2006

Comments: This sweater never interested me until my friend Aimee knit it last summer. The yarn was a pleasant surprise for the price. I don't think I made any modifications. For some reason, the lace sections bored me so badly that I kept putting this on the back burner, but I'm glad I finished it in time to wear this season because It's the perfect summer sweater. And machine washable!!

Dibs on Ribs

2006-08-24T21:20:00.000-07:00

"Free" pattern found on Interweave Knits website in the Subscriber Only section

Yarn: Noro Kureyon in color #139
Started February 3 and finished February 16, 2006 (BTW: In case you don't know this already, it's pretty cold and dreary here in Maine in February so there isn't much else to do besides knit and watch the tube if you don't ski)

Comments: I love love love everything about this pattern. It was really fun to knit and just challenging enough to stay interesting. I've even toyed with the idea of making another one in neutral colors. The only modification I made was to omit the little extra bit of ribbing at the sides of the neck and I only worked one row of single crochet. I did buy an extra skein of yarn to match my stripes. As much as I love this sweater, I kind of feel like it's a Knitter's sweater - like something only a Knitter can appreciate. A walking show and tell. Oh who cares anyway? I wore it to our local Knit and Spa weekend at the Doubletree Hotel in Portland, and this boy, who had to be all of 10 years old, came up to me and said "I love your sweater". He smiled every time he saw me. It was very cute. Tim thought he had a crush on me. I prefer to think that he is a born knitter.

We Call Them Pirates

2006-08-24T21:16:00.000-07:00

Free pattern found here at Hello Yarn
Started January 31 and finished February 4, 2006
Yarn: Dale of Norway Tiur in colors 5573 and 4425 (black and hotpink)

Comments: This was my first attempt at fair isle in preparation for my Olympic Challenge sweater (see below). I tried two-handed continental (I'm a thrower) and gave up when I saw that I could maintain more even tension using an awkward but effective drop and throw method. I didn't make any modifications to the pattern, but if I were to make another fair isle hat, I would use two circulars to close the crown: it was difficult to maintain even tension rounding the corners on the double points. Every time someone saw me knitting it, they said "But it's got skulls on it"! Like that was a bad thing! I mean they are pink after all. I wear it with irony.

Mavis

2006-08-24T21:14:00.000-07:00

Pattern from "Naturally Noro" by Jane Ellison
Started January 19 and finished February 5, 2006
Yarn: Noro Silk Garden in Color No. 224 (The yarn was a Christmas gift from my mother)
Knit smallest size on size 7 Addi Turbos

Comments: For the most part, I love this yarn but I don't love the sweater as much as I thought I would (I suspect a bit of trick photography lured me in). The armholes are too deep causing large upper arms, the sleeves are too long, the shoulders seem big and the collar sits funny no matter how much I fuss with it. As you may have noticed, I worked really hard to get all my stripes to match. Not easy considering that the skeins are not uniformly wound. OK, so I'm one of those knitters.

Yankee Knitter Classic Socks

2006-08-24T21:09:00.000-07:00

Started and finished first sock sometime in 2005 (summer?) and finished second sock (finally) in January (notice a trend? I have finishing issues when it comes to socks).

Same K2 P2 rib as previous post, but this time used size 1 needles (Brittany Birch)
Yarn: Lana Grossa Meilenweit Cotton Multiringel in color 2210
Comments: These are by far my favorite pair of socks. Love the fit and color. So much so that I ran out and bought another skein (in a different color).

Scoop Neck Cardigan

2006-08-24T15:35:00.000-07:00

Scoop Neck Cardigan
From the Debbie Bliss "Noro Collection" (As you can see by now, I had a torrid love affair with this yarn)
Yarn : Silk Garden color #226
Started February 15 and finished March 5, 2006
Modifications: Shortened sleeves by 1 inch.

Comments: I Love this sweater! Really fast and fun to knit and I have worn it many times! (The stripes almost match)

Caramel Denin Fair Isle

2006-08-23T21:22:00.000-07:00

Knitting Olympic Challenge!! (click to read Stephanie's Rules if you don't already know)

Pattern: Caramel Denim Fair Isle designed by Fiona Ellis from Interweave Knits Fall 2001
Yarn: Sirdar Country Style DK and Encore DK
Started February 10 at 8:00 pm during the Opening Ceremonies and finished February 15, 2006 at 2:00 pm! WAHOO! I did it! (It didn't hurt that I got a bad cold during this time and had to stay home sick. Really. It's true. I felt awful. Well, not so bad that I couldn't knit)

Comments: Where to begin? The recommended yarn wasn't available so I substituted something with the same gauge in similar colors. The pattern is written for child sizing so I chose the size 6 to get a finished chest measurement of 35 inches (it actually finished 38 before seaming). I was supposed to get gauge on US needle sizes 6 and 4 (it is DK after all) and ended up using size 2 and 3 Addi Turbos. (I nearly cried every time I knit a gauge swatch and went down another needle size, but in the end, it's the same number of stitches regardless of what size needles). I added an inch to the body length and changed the sleeve length and shaping. When I finished all the pieces, I sweated on how to weave in all those @#$*& ends, so I "cheated". I used my sewing machine, and with really short, tight stitches, sewed in the middle of the edge row along the fair isle and striped sections. I then cut off (!!!) all those ends and zig zagged over the whole mess. It looks like it was done with a serger. Kind of like steeks! All that matters is that it worked and the yarn police never came knocking. Mind you, if I had had the time, I wouldn't have done this. I'm very pleased with this sweater and my only regret, if you could even call it that, is that it isn't 100% wool.

Soule Mama's Hat of Choice - With a little bling

2006-08-23T21:04:00.000-07:00

Pattern found here. I met the designer of this wonderful hat in Jo-Ann Fabrics one day and she was kind enough to tell me that I could find the pattern on her blog. Since then, I've made several. This is the first one I made this year (I plan on making more). I was inspired by a photo of Madonna wearing a crochet hat embellished with a sequined flower on the cover of Elle magazine, but since I don't really like to crochet, I decided to use this pattern instead. The yarn is "A Jo-Ann's Exclusive!" Sensations, Simple Elegance Collection, Celebration (who comes up with these names? One would have been sufficient). The sequin flower is also from Jo-Ann's . I used 1 skein and size 9 needles.

Yankee Knitter Classic Socks

2006-08-23T21:02:00.000-07:00

Started March 2005 and finished first sock soon after. Second Sock finished January 2006

Yarn: Fortissima Colori - Disco - Socka Color Color #9050.

Just your basic 2x2 rib on size 2 needles (mindless knitting)

Yankee Knitter Adult Aran Sweater

2006-08-23T20:55:00.000-07:00

Started: November 2005

Finished: January 16, 2006

Knit smallest size (34?) using 6 skeins of Patons Classic Wool in "Tree Bark Mix"

Modifications: Omitted ribbing from cuffs and hem and added turtleneck.

Comments: I wanted to make a fitted aran (I don't remember why), but I'm not really happy with the way this turned out. The upper sleeves are huge and a little too short. To compensate, I picked up stitches at the cuff and added 1 inch of moss stitch, but I still don't like them. I feel like a wee chubette in this sweater. The yarn was really nice to work with, and I like the color, which is greener in real life. (Try photographing a green sweater when everything in your yard is green!)

Kate

2006-08-23T16:36:00.000-07:00

From Winter Knitty 2005 (pattern here)

Started January 21, 2006 and Finished January 22nd.

I love this little cutie pie! Unfortunately, I don't have her anymore because she was a baby shower gift for a quilting pal, Emily. I used Brown Sheep Lamb's Pride Worsted in Oatmeal, Khaki and Pink. The only modification was to add a tail (which you can't see). It was a fun and easy pattern. Maybe someday I'll make another for myself.

Knitting Bag

2006-08-15T22:06:00.000-07:00

Knit side (above) and Purl side (below). The letter brads don't show up so well in the photos.

Pattern: Interpretation of a quilted bag called "Gypsy Tote".

Materials: Alexander Henry Fabric, letter brads and bamboo handles all purchased at JoAnn Fabrics

Comments: I attended a workshop for the Gypsy Tote (can't find a link) which uses double-sided quilted fabric. This was my attempt to make a sturdier bag using fabric fused to both sides of canvas. Not a good idea. See more about this bag in my original post here.

Homestead Hearth Runner

2006-08-15T09:13:00.000-07:00

Pattern: Homestead Hearth by Touchwood Quilt Design

Materials: Amy Butler fabrics - came in kit purchased at Keepsake Quilting

Techniques: Machine piecing, machine quilting

Detail of 16 patch block:

Quilted Dunes Landscape

2006-08-15T08:49:00.000-07:00

Pattern: My own

Materials: cotton fabrics from stash, seed beads, fuzzy yarn, sea shell

Techniques: Fused applique, machine quilting, hand embellishment

Close-up of embellishments: