Bailey

The design for this aran scarf was inspired by a similar scarf offered in the Winter 2006 Land's End catalog. Bailey Island, located on Casco Bay in the Town of Harpswell, Maine, features a cute gift shop called Land's End. As a child, my mother and I would often drive to Bailey Island in the summer and picnic on the giant sloping metamorphic rocks outside of the gift shop. Although I loved trolling the beach for treasures, my favorite part of the day was shopping for a new cotton sailor bracelet which looked exactly like the alternating cable rib pattern in this scarf. When I first discovered that there was a clothing catalog called Lands End, I naturally assumed that it was the same shop, and was peeved when I discovered that it was not. This scarf is my tribute to those summer days at the real Land's End.

Finished measurements (without blocking) 6.5 inches wide by 77 inches long - including fringe

Yarn: 575 yards of worsted weight yarn (note: the fringe uses 31 yards and adds approximately 11 inches to the total finished length) Scarf in photo used 3 skeins of Malabrigo (216 yds per skein) in color "Natural"

Gauge: 20 sts and 26 rows = 4 inches (5 sts/inch)

Needles: U.S. size 8 and size D (3.0 mm) crochet hook

Abbreviations:

st = stitch
sts = stitches
k = knit
p = purl
RS = Right Side
WS = Wrong Side
(pm) = place marker
cn = cable needle
C4F = slip 2 sts to cn and hold in front, k2 then k2 from cn
CFB = slip 2 sts to cn and hold in back, k2 then k2 from cn
T3kB = slip 1 st to cn and hold back, k2 then k1 from cn
T3F = slip 2 sts to cn and hold in front, p1 then k2 from cn
T3pB = slip 1 st to cn and hold in back, k2 then p1 from cn

Cable Patterns:

NOTE: For all patterns, on all even numbered (WS) rows, work stitches as they appear. Instructions for the some even numbered rows are given only as a reminder of how many rows are worked.

Pattern A: Open Work Cable with Moss Stitch (worked over 12 sts and 16 rows)

Row 1: RIGHT SIDE - p4, C4F, p4 ; LEFT SIDE - p4, C4B, p4
Row 2 and all even numbered rows: works sts as they appear
Row 3: p3, T3kB, T3F, p3
Row 5: p2, T3kB, p1, k1, T3F, p2
Row 7: p1, T3kB, (p1, k1) twice, T3F, p1
Row 9: P1, k2, (p1, k1) 3 times, k2, p1
Row 11: p1 T3F, (p1, k1) twice, T3pB, p1
Row 13: p2, T3F, p1, k1, T3pB, p2
Row 15: p3, T3F, T3pB
Row 16: work sts as they appear

Pattern B: Alternating Cable Rib (worked over 6 sts and 4 rows)

Row 1: C4B, k2
Row 2: p6
Row 3: k2, C4F
Row 4: p6

Pattern C : Double Cable (worked over 10 sts and 8 rows)

Row 1: p1, C4B, C4F, p1
Row 2 and all even numbered rows: k1, p8, k1
Rows 3, 5 and 7: p1, k8, p1
Row 8: k1, p8, k1


Pattern notes:

Instructions are provided for placing markers. Whether or not you use markers is up to you. Each cable pattern is divided by a purl stitch which I found sufficient to use as a visual marker, but do whatever feels most comfortable to you. Sometimes it is helpful to use the markers until you become familiar with the pattern.

Each full repeat is composed of 16 rows. Within those 16 rows, you will repeat the Pattern A once, Pattern B 4 times, and Pattern C twice. Please note that on Row 1 of Pattern A, the cables on the Right and Left cross in opposite directions.

Instructions are given using a cable needle, but all of the cables are easily worked without one. There are a number of tutorials available on the web including Grumperina's, Wendy's and this YouTube video.

Instructions:

Cast on 50 sts (I use long tail method)

Set up Row: p2 (pm) k4, p4, k4 (pm) p6 (pm) k1, p8, k1 (pm) p6 (pm) p4, k4, p4 (pm) p2

Row 1 (RS): k2, work Row 1 of Pattern A for RIGHT SIDE over 12 sts, work Row 1 of Pattern B over 6 sts, work Row 1 of Pattern C over 10 sts, work Row 1 of Pattern B over 6 sts, and work Row 1 of Pattern A for LEFT SIDE over 12 sts, k2
Row 2 and all even numbered (WS) rows: work all sts as they appear (knit the knits and purl the purls)
Row 3: k2, work Row 3 of all Patterns as set up in Row 1, k2
Row 5: k2, work Row 5 of Pattern A, Row 1 of Pattern B, and Row 5 of Pattern C, k2
Row 7: k2, work Row 7 of Pattern A, Row 3 of Pattern B, and Row 7 of Pattern C, k2
Row 9: k2, work Row 9 of Pattern A, Row 1 of Pattern B, and Row 1 of Pattern C, k2
Row 11: k2, work Row 11 of Pattern A, Row 3 of Pattern B, and Row 3 of Pattern C, k2
Row 13: k2, work Row 13 of Pattern A, Row 1 of Pattern B, and Row 5 of Pattern C, k2
Row 15: k2 work Row 15 of Pattern A, Row 3 of Pattern B, and Row 7 of Pattern C, k2
Row 16 (WS): work all sts as they appear

Repeat Rows 1 thru 16 a total of 27 times, or to desired length, ending on row 16. Bind off all stitches in pattern according to Row 1 (yes, that means cable and then bind off - this helps keep the stitches from spreading out during bind off.)

Weave in ends and block if desired. Scarf shown was not blocked.
Fringe:

Cut 84 strands 13 inches long. Note: I wrapped the yarn around a rotary cutting ruler 6.5 inches wide and then cut along one side. You may also use a book or any other method to make your strands.

Insert crochet hook from back to front through second stitch in cast on/bind off end. Hold 2 strands of fringe together and fold in half. Insert crochet hook in the loop end and pull through the stitch part way with crochet hook. Draw ends of fringe through this loop and pull ends to close the loop. Repeat approximately every other stitch in cast on/bind off end even spaced across. Trim fringe if needed. Model scarf has 21 fringes across each end.